24 October 2019: Sanlucar to La Rabida (56 miles-780 total)

October 25, 2019

We had a few road closings and an end-of-day visit to the Christopher Columbus Museum that added to the planned miles. Another long day but it seemed easier than the prior day. Most of the climbing was in the first third. but that bump at the end was long, hot, and on the shoulder of a busy road.

Breakfast of Champions. Our hotel had an arrangement with a nearby coffee shop for breakfast. Our options were coffees or hot chocolate, churros or tostada. This was the really good, thick, traditional hot chocolate of Spain.

Michael Repacking. Michael says it's getting easier, but I have not yet convinced him to convert to zip-lock bags. He's not carrying that much, but it just expands and looks larger in trash bags.

Our Lodging. John and Robin got the downstairs room with 2, twin beds; Michael and I got the upstairs room with 3, twin beds. At least we had the 3rd bed to lay out gear.

I cycled this route in 2014. The iconic image was the large, black toro on the horizon, solid confirmation. The image is great from a distance, but up close shows it's warts.

Sweet Dog of the Day Offers a Play Bow.

Another déjà vu moment. I recall the 6 of us in 2014 exploring Niebla. We stopped this time for lunch short of the walled city, so I was at first just guessing that this was familiar.

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Niebla's history stretches back roughly 3000 years. Farming activities were undertaken during the end of the Bronze Age. By the 8th century B.C., Phoenician traders became interested in the silver that was mined nearby. Residents of Niebla worked in the silver industry since the town was located in a location between the mines and the ocean port.

The silver trade enriched the residents of Niebla. Between the 8th and the 6th centuries B.C., walls were built around the town from stone.

As the silver began to run out, Niebla maintained its agrarian background. During the Roman Age Niebla remained a commercial and political centre and was known as Ilipla. Coins have been found that were minted with the town's name.

In 711 the Moors invaded Spain and by 713 the town of Ilipla was under Muslim control. The town became part of the Cordoba's emirate in 756 and further fortifications were constructed. Over the next few centuries it prospered under Muslim rule. In the 11th century, Niebla's army allied itself with the kingdoms of Mértola, Silves, and Badajoz and fought the kingdom of Seville. They lost and the town became part of the kingdom of Seville in 1051.

Niebla generally prospered under Islamic rule and Christians were allowed to practise their religion. However, Islamic rule began to weaken after 1212. The town was conquered in 1262 by Alonzo X. The land was redistributed among the Christian settlers.

Roman Pont or Bridge

Traffic Circle Entering La Rabida. Fruits, vegetables, and flowers are intensively cultivated in this area and exported. We stopped at the Dia Market opposite where we stocked up on riding food and enjoyed a near end of the group's ride with ice cream bars.

Another excellent hotel. John originally selected the hotel for its proximity to the Christopher Columbus Museum and ship replicas. We found it to be clean and modern, with few guests, and equipped with extensive banquet rooms. The lone check-in clerk handled the bar and restaurant as well.

After check-in, the SLO (San Luis Obispo) Group immediately went to the museum. I showered quickly and followed. It was worth the visit.

Fore deck of the Santa Maria, Columbus' flag ship.

Captain's Cabin. The admiral was the only crew member who had a bunk. the rest slept wherever they could. We were amazed at the small size of the ships. The exhibits stressed that the Spanish caravel was selected because it could sail close to the wind, offering a better chance to return against the prevailing trade winds.