20 October 2019: Arco de la Frontera to Puerto de Santa Maria (32 miles-593 total)

After an overnight rain, we assembled for a light breakfast at 8 am, then left about 9:30. In general, we had the roads to ourselves. We saw many cyclists all along our route. We paralleled a major motorway, which drew most vehicle traffic. We skirted Jerez, a large city, traveling some bike trails and through industrial and warehouse areas where the businesses were closed on Sunday.

Our major event was stumbling across a huge village market. Unlike most, this was 95-percent clothing. The market was located in a large estate. Some most vendors had their goods displayed under Easy-Up-style awnings, but some were permanently located in estate buildings. Cars were stopping well away and walking to the market. Car parking was limited but not bike parking.

John caught a spoke on something when moving his bike, and the aluminum spoke nipple disintegrated. He quickly removed the tire and rim strip, borrowed a spoke nipple from Robin, replaced the spoke, trued the wheel, and we were on to the market. Nothing much to buy for us. The food items were limited and getting a vendor's attention was nearly impossible. I thought I had lost a single bike sock, so I bought a replacement—3-pairs minimum for 1.5 euros. Upon arrival today, I emptied my duffel and found the lost sock.

As we approached Santa Maria, the residential outskirts were gritty, what one might expect in a port city. The area improved rapidly, transitioning to a mix of old, upgraded, and new 3-4 story buildings with shops and businesses scattered on the ground floor and apartments above. The sidewalk cafes were filled with people enjoying the sunny Sunday afternoon.

Locating the apartment was not easy. Our maps.me app got us close, within about 2 blocks, but not adequate amid 3-4 story apartment buildings. We called the listing number, with no answer. The google maps link in the listing took us to the wrong place. Then Tania, the owner, called John back. Lacking English, she kept repeating a street name that John could not quite understand. Then a man somehow related to Tania appeared out of a corner bar, having seen us ride by earlier, hailed John, then escorted us a few doors down to an apartment building entrance, called Tania for the entry code and keys, and took us to the 2nd floor. In sum, the booking.com address and listed name for the apartment were wrong.

The apartment is excellent, spacious, modern, and clean. Unlike others, the basic food groups often left are missing. That's coffee, oil, vinegar, and basil spices. Salt is readily left, pepper not yet. We have about 1400 sq. ft., in total, large kitchen-dining-living room, 2 bedrooms with twin beds each, modern bath, windows overlooking the street, and large courtyard patio with a clothes line. The area is pretty upscale, probably a popular vacation spot in season. The charge for 2 nights is only 68 euros, which includes a 25 euro cleaning fee.

The only issue is that all but tiny markets are closed on Sunday all day in Spain. As we walked about, the area lacked the usual corner markets, just bars offering tapas.

Info on Santa Maria:
El Puerto de Santa María is a town in southwest Spain. It’s known for its beaches, pine woods and whitewashed houses. Centuries-old San Marcos Castle is an Islamic-Gothic structure with horseshoe arches, stained glass and crenelated walls. The 15th-century Priory Church has a Gothic sandstone facade and an ornate Mexican-silver altarpiece. Valdelagrana Beach has a seafront promenade and is popular for water sports.

In 711, Arab (Moors) from the North of Africa conquered southern Spain. They renamed the place Alcante or Alcanatif which means Port of Salt. In 1260, Alfonso X of Castile conquered the city from the Moors and renamed it Santa María del Puerto. Christopher Columbus's first expedition to the Americas set sail from El Puerto de Santa María, naming his flag ship after the city. In the nineteenth century the city became the General Headquarters for the French Army during the Peninsular War under the reign of Joseph Bonaparte (1801–1812).

We plan to explore Santa Maria and Cadiz tomorrow. Cadiz is an easy13 mile ride by bike or or 30 minutes by ferry (under 3 euros each way.

Our Puerto de Arcos Hotel

Departing.

Odd mix of old and newer? Closed and fenced.

Vegetable Vendor. Staged along the highway, about 200 yards from the large market.

Market. As noted, 95-percent clothing. I wondered if any of it was made in Spain. Several offered leather goods, but hard to tell what if any had been made in Spain.

Market Dog of the Day #1

A particularly colorful vendor, altertively singing and shouting.

Market Dog of the Day #2

Entrance to mausoleum/graveyard.

Roadside Diner Lunch. This large diner was setting up for a buffet lunch in the next room, with people waiting outside, then lining up for the 2 pm opening. We settled for sandwiches and drinks in the deli and bar area.

Winter season begins in October. Open only Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Only 2 blocks from our apartment.

After showers, we wandered out to find something for dinner. We first checked the ferry port and schedule and plan to ride it to Cadiz tomorrow morning. The fare is 2.75 euros and bikes are free, so we will take the ferry in and ride back.

Our next stop was the Rock Cafe, with an outside placard that advertised live music by Johan. John and I were delighted that they offered a real IPA, Punk IPA. Then Antonio, appeared the man who let us into the apartment, and Tania, the owner, with their extended family enjoying an evening listening Johan's band pumping out mostly American rock music at the Rock Cafe. Yes, we were probably the oldest patrons, but the crowd was generally in the 40-60 age range and seemed to mouth the words to each song—Wilson Picket, AC-DC, Springsteen, Boston, etc.

Punk IPA. Not the best IPA ever, but the best we have found in Spain. John and I started with a pint; Michael soon joined us, after a pint of Radler. Apparently, Radler is a style made by a number of breweries. Per the web: Radler is the German term for a mixture of beer and fruit soda or lemonade. Literally, it means cyclist. The Europeans, being more civilized about these things than we Americans, view this crisp, sweet-tart beverage as Gatorade, essentially: a thirst-quenching sports drink.

Our first round of Punk IPAs.

I guess that's Johan with the southern cross guitar. Nice Beatles background mural. As the night progressed, the dance floor was crowded with dancers singing along with the band.

Antonio (shaved head), Tania (partner?) in the green dress, Tania's sister, Greta; and Tania's two daughters. I used Google Translate to communicate with Antonio and Tania. Antonio recommended a good fish restaurant (we found it closed on Sunday), and I was able to clarify that Tania had been paid via booking.com. Oddly, the booking.com confirmation said that we would pay at the property and that a 100-euro damage deposit would be collected in cash upon check-in. Neither was accurate.