13 October 2019: Archidona to Campillos (31 miles-387 total)

October 13, 2019

Hostal as a label can be deceptive. Our Archidona lodging was a hostal, run a bit haphazardly. They had a number of sleeping room, a large common area, and many of the rooms are equipped with bunk beds. Having stayed in hostels before with mixed results, I repeatedly asked if this is what they wanted and all said yes. When we arrived, the room had two singles and a bunk bed. Robin was OK, having stayed in many similar hostals when traveling in Asia. John and I were OK with it, knowing we would spend our time in the lounge area and just sleep in the room. Michael felt cramped and rented another room. John then opted to move to Michael's room, but it all worked out.

We had cooking facilities, but nothing to cook. I managed to get to the store just before closing and purchased yoghurt, banana, and beer. I still had a tomato gleaned from yesterday, so my breakfast was adequate, yoghurt, banana, and tomato. John had some bread and cheese, so he was OK.

We had a cool temperature start with a nice downhill. I paused at the bakery on the way out, but John wanted to proceed, thinking we would see a real restaurant. I recommended the bird in hand, but we went on, perhaps 8 miles before spotting a good highway restaurant. Tostadas and coffee for Johnand I, a bit more for Robin and Michael.

Next stop was Antequera, a mid-sized city known for having many churches and a large Moorish fortress. We wound our way up to the fortress, only 3 euros to tour with informative handsets. I thought it was the best 3 euros spent on our tour, as you will see from the photos.

Our lodging tonight is also a hostal, but is a standard hotel in the middle of Campillos. The mother checked us in, calling her daughter out of the adjacent living room for help with English. She has 3 years of English in the local school, and is doing quite well. It being Sunday, most businesses are closed. An establishment across the street is selling barbecued chicken but closed. John tried to get some but the line never moved. Clearly the locals knew it was good and would soon close. We showered and walked to a nearby cafe for tapas and drinks.

Entering Antequera

Robin and Michael riding up to the Alcazar (fortress) at the top of Antequera.

Forest Fire Smoke? Industrial Facility? No, we found that they irrigate at night and a dense fog forms in the cool morning air.

Antequera

The Alcazaba of Antequera is a fortress in Antequera, Spain. Alcazaba in Arabic means citadel. It was erected in the 14th century to counter the Christian advance from the north, over Roman ruins.

The fortress is rectangular in shape, with two towers. Its keep (Spanish: Torre del homenaje, 15th century) is considered amongst the largest of Moorish al-Andalus, with the exception of the Comares Tower of the Alhambra. It is surmounted by a Catholic bell tower/chapel (Templete del Papabellotas) added in 1582.

Started by the Romans, and then taken over in turn by the Visigoths, Moors (Arabs), and then Christians in 1410 as part of the Crusades.

Antequera from the Alcazaba

Antequera

Michael entering the Alcazar

When cast, the largest bell in Spain. Someone rang it when I was 8 feet away.

Servicio. Loo, toilet.

Cat of the Day. Helping out at the Alcazaba ticket office.

Church adjacent to the Alcazar.

Ruins of the Roman baths.

When exiting Antequera, we entered a street closed, perhaps for a demonstration/parade. Very convenient for us—bicycles were allowed but no motorized vehicles.

Dog of the Day. Parade spectator.

Official Speeches. As Robin, Michael, and I rode past, they entered the call-and-response phase. John was a few minutes behind us, and encountered them marching, then firing their rifles. We later found the parade was to honor the Spanish Foreign Legion, who fought mainly in Morocco.